Morgan O’Donovan for ELLE.com
Something was hidden under Dior’s veiled bucket hats, but alas, it wasn’t a free saddle bag. Instead, the in-the-know detail was a wowzer! graphic eye by Peter Philips, who called it “a cartoon” based on the ’60s fashion fantasy film, Who Are You, Polly Magoo? (It’s on Amazon Prime if you’re all done with Russian Doll…)
The black-on-black look used Diorshow’s matte black eyeliner to color in the entire top lid, along with giant drawn-on lashes (“really they are long rectangles, not even lines,” Philips said backstage) along the bottom. A generous coat of Maximizer 3-D and black mascara sealed the deal, with lips and brows played down for maximum lash focus.
The look was ’60s anime—as if Twiggy became a Sailor Moon sidekick—but it also came with a trick for avoiding the dreaded cat-eye-smudge: “When the liner is still wet, look all the way up and then all the way down,” says Philips. “It will leave a mark right above your upper lid, and you want that. It shows you how far to take the liner” if you’re doing a full-on graphic eye, or where to put a preventative dab of concealer if you’re not.
On the hair front, Guido Palau used Redken’s Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame—a big name for a tidy heat-protector-styling-cream combo—on models’ low ponytails, along with a trick of his own: wrapping the base of the ponies in netting before allowing them to dry, he kept the hair from going poof and kept it in one long, silky line instead. Mimic the technique with a silk scarf or even (seriously) the netting from a bag of oranges for in-control style.